Trip to Tabo – Spiti Valley – Himachal Pradesh
Tabo is a small Buddhist village of a few hundred, located 3050 m (10,006 feet) above sea level in the cold desert region of the Lahaul-Spiti valley in Himachal Pradesh. It has a beautiful monastery, or gompa, with the ancient compound dating back to 996 A.D. – making it the oldest continually functioning Buddhist establishment in India.
According to some texts I purchased at the monastery’s book shop, the Tabo gompa came up under the patronage of the ancient Tibetan royal dynasty of Purang-Guge; it was one of the 108 constructed between the tenth to twelfth centuries AD, when the second diffusion of Buddhism was supposed to have taken place. These were spread across the Lahaul-Spiti valley, Kinnaur region and Ladakh, all a part of present day India, as well as what is now Western Tibet.
These were located along the trade routes of the time and involved heavy financial outlays; traders could take night halts here securing their lives and possessions from bandits. The monastery is currently home to about 50 lamas or monks, many still very young.
Tabo Monastery is an ancient monastery that was established in 996 CE. It is considered to be an important monastery and is often referred to as the Ajanta of the Himalayas. The complex has 9 temples and many stupas—all of which are made in mud and have been standing like this for more than 1000 years.
The main temple is an assembly hall where monks used to pray together. This hall has all its walls painted with Buddhist stories. There are stories of the life of Shakyamuni (the Buddha) and various Bodhisattvas. There are also 33 stucco sculptures of Bodhisattvas on the walls with their names mentioned for recognition.
You can go around the hall and admire the paintings, some of which date back to the time when the monastery was built, but most of them are from a later period when probably conservation and restoration work was carried on. The paintings do seem to be inspired from Ajanta paintings though the style of is a bit different. Other temples are usually closed, but monks might open them for you on request.
These temples belong to Buddhist deities like Tara and Buddha Maitreya. No photography of the paintings is allowed at Tabo Monastery though you can take pictures of the complex outside. However, picture postcards of these beautiful paintings are available with monks for sale.
